Between Iraq and a Hard Place
8 months in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan
First Night Out
Wednesday night was the first time I was able to go out on the town. Instead of getting the free hotel lunch, Claire, Caroline, Christine, Brittany, Eve,----, Awbrey and I went out to eat at Hasham's. We were the only women out, no surprise and we got honked at a few times. It was a beautiful walk though and completely different than I expected. Unlike Meknes, where everything was Moroccan and nothing looked completely western, we passed a ton of cafes or restaurants that looked like they were straight out of Europe. To get to Hasham's we walked down Rainbow Street. I had been hearing about it for the past two days and was told that it was a really chill place for tourists and ex-pats to hang out. I was having visions of neon lights and bright colors reminiscent of candyland. I was disappointed when I discovered that it wasn't colorful, but the views of the city that the steep hill provided made up for it.
Hasham's is tucked into an alleyway off of a fairly busy street in Jabal Amman. It consists of 30 or so plastic tables and chairs and there is only one thing that you can order- hummus, fuul, and falafel. They sit you down throw down pieces of waxed paper, and dump a handful of falafel onto it. Falafel are delicious balls of chick peas and various spices, and fuul is like a better sort of hummus- I haven't figured out whats in it yet. They bring the hummus and fuul out in bowls and a man with pita draped over his arm comes and puts it on the table in front of you. No silverware, no plates, no napkins, just food :). Unlike Morocco there were no flies or cats hovering around which was a welcome change. We clearly stuck out as the loud american girls, despite how quiet we attempted to be- but life is exciting now, we can't really help it. Hasham's is in all of the guide books because the whole experience will only cost you 1 JD (a little over $1) and the King has even eaten there due to its popularity.
After dinner we went to a bakery around the corner to get kenefa which is a Jordanian desert with sugar and cheese and other good tasting things. Inshallah I will learn how to cook all of this by the time 8 months is up, wish me luck.