Country:

Swaziland

Blog Posts

SwazilandSwaziland

Mo' Fire

August 18, 2009 So the last post only talked about the work part of Swaziland. But the real reason I was super excited to go was that I was going to get to stay for the Bushfire Music Festival over the weekend. This is the third year the festival has ... read more

Leona Rosenblum

SwazilandSwaziland

Mo' Fire

August 18, 2009 Mo’ Fire Filed under: Uncategorized — unaleona @ 4:20 pm Edit This So the last post only talked about the work part of Swaziland. But the real reason I was super excited to go was that I was going to get to stay for the Bushfire Music Festival ... read more

Leona Rosenblum

SwazilandSwaziland

Driving in Swaziland

I've coined a new phrase (although I’m probably not the first to make this observation): If you can drive in Swaziland, you can drive anywhere. Someone once told me that traffic accidents are the leading cause of death to travelers in Southern Africa. I’m not sure if ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Into the Field

The absence of blog posts can only mean one thing: I’ve been working hard! As the third and final phase of my research project I have been going out to “the field” and surveying local communities. With my trusty research assistant, Nonhlahla, in toe, I set out in my ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

The New Ambassador

Recently a new US Ambassador arrived in Swaziland. The State Department held a reception for him at the Royal Villas, an extravagant housing complex officially owned by the King which as previously hosted the recently ousted President of Madagascar as well as Robert Mugabe. The dress code was “business casual ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Umhlanga

Its impossible to be in Swaziland during this time of year and fail to mention the Umhlanga. The Umhlanga, or Reed Dance, is one of the most important events on the Swazi calendar. Traditionally, the Reed Dance is a time when Swazi's virginal maidens pay homage to the Queen ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Jewish Country Safari

So I’m sitting in a hotel conference room in Swaziland, trying to figure out if I have any ‘work’ to do today. It seems likely that the answer is no. Though I partly feel bad that I may be rather unnecessary here, I’m kind of psyched that I ... read more

Leona Rosenblum

SwazilandSwaziland

Superstitious

Today, soccer practice was canceled. So instead of running around for an hour, I sat in my Fiat station wagon and talked with Simphiwe. Simphiwe is the "first born" (read, "oldest") in her family. And, as the saying goes, its her job to chase away the thunder storms. Some Swazis ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Sonneyboy

A few days ago I had coffee with my soccer coach, Sonneyboy (yes that’s his real name). I think that Sonneyboy is a real community hero, so I thought I’d share a bit of that with you! Our coach, Sonneyboy, drive my team to every game. Recently, he ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

I Am, in Fact, a Researcher

So, you, Joe Taxpaper, may be reading this and wondering why your hard earned money is going to fund Fulbright Scholars such as myself who traipse around Africa on horseback and marvel at Rhinos and how oddly male lions pee. Well, I can’t really help you understand that. You ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Tuesday Night is Game Night

It is Tuesday night in Swaziland and for me that means Game Night. In a country of less than a million people, many of whom live below the poverty line, most entertainment here is of the DIY variety. But being an ex-pat in the Kingdom of Swaziland is by no ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Rhinos and Other Hlane Hightlights

Yesterday I finally got the opportunity to check out Hlane Royal Nature Reserve. After driving for an hour through Manzini toward Siteki on a poorly sign-posted road, we finally turned onto the dirt road to the main camp in Hlane. We decided to take a drive in my old Fiat ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

The Nerd in Me

Although my life is incredibly laid back and I enjoy having adventures, I do sometimes pay homage to the American tax payers and actually do some research. I particularly like going to the University of Swaziland Library and digging through the Swazana section. Its stoked full of all old students ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Country Western and other Music in Swaziland

It’s true that outside of primitive djs spinning pre-mixed CDs of House or cliché hip-hop the live music scene in Swaziland is severely lacking. However, given the infrequency of live performances here, when there is a live band, I go. And usually I’m not disappointed. Back in May ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

When the Man's Tired, the Forest Gives

Being hit on is absolutely unavoidable in Swaziland. I would like to think that I’m sought after for my good lucks, charming wit, or unique personality, but the truth is I could be covered in warts with a crocked nose as long as I’m white and female I ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

A Three-Hole-Punch and Other Research Hurdles

In my state of fear, disorganization and disillusionment before leaving California for Swaziland, I attempted to fool myself into thinking I was ready by making some superficial preparations. Because the US State Department allows Fulbrighters to ship two boxes of “education materials” to themselves through the diplomatic mail, I loaded ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

The King’s Birthday and Other Political Matters

Swaziland is an anomaly politically. Indeed it is this very reason that I am able to do research at all. I found Swaziland particularly interesting because it has a state sanctioned dual court system of formal Roman-Dutch style magistrate’s courts as well as traditional Swazi National Courts which arbiter ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

How to run a (Half) Marathon and Get a Private Tour of Robben Island without Even Trying

Cape Town in beautiful. The coastline curves, loops back on itself, points, bends, and does its best to obscure your sense of direction. Majestic Table Mountain rises up behind the city – or is it in front – and keeps the encroaching urban areas in check with forbidding gorges and overwhelming inclines ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

I'm with the Team

On Sunday I went with my new soccer team, Kappa Ladies, to their game at Mhlambayatsi. Although I’m not yet registered to play (although hopefully will be soon), I went along as a spectator. We met in front of Wild Wingzz in Mbabane. Some of the girls wore their ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

A Joke About Rape

I’m attending UNISWA’s first annual Law Week.  I enter the hall and, because I’m white and severely underdressed, people assume I’m some sort of honored guest and attempt to seat me at the high table.  It takes me a while to explain, “I’m nobody.”  I ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

The Police are Hitting on Sarah

Sunday afternoon saw Sarah and I at Veky and Dave’s for a braai. I enjoyed the meat, the guacamole and hearing about Peter and Hilda’s eight month drive from Cape Town to Holland with their two small children. I was a bit annoyed, however, that some time between ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Miliwane by Myself

This weekend, as my housemates were all in South Africa on various errands – running a marathon, buying flowers for a wedding, and getting drunk – I was left to my own devices. And, now that I have a car, I decided now would be the time to explore. After plucking through ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Morning Commute

Now that I have a car (a soccer-mom Fiat Station Wagon), I am going to miss my morning commute. Usually, I will walk down my road to the bottom of the hill where is intersects with the main road slicing through the Ezulwini Valley. I position myself between the puddles ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

Swazi Socialite

On Friday night, the two Cypriot boys and I went off to Café Lingo, a recently opened spot in town that boasts live music on Friday nights. Tonight a special “Guitarist Extraordinaire,” Nanando, was billed to play. I had seen the advertising banner hung by the main intersection in town ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

The Battle of the Butter

Yesterday morning I accompanied my hostess to her usual morning coffee date in town. “There is nothing else to do, so why not have coffee with my friends,” she explains in a thick Greek accent, fumbling for her cigarettes. Her ‘international’ coffee circle consists of two Greeks, a Turkish woman ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

First Impressions

I flew to Manzini on a 30 passenger plane that swayed down the runway and took off into drizzling clouds. From the air, in peek-a-boos in the clouds was green, sparkling fresh-from-the-rain green. Valleys of bright green flowed down from mountains of deep green; mountains that don’t come sharply ... read more

Mallory Primm

SwazilandSwaziland

T Minus One Week

For the next 10 months I'll be living in Swaziland, trying to complete a research project of which I have only a vague outline and attempting to justify giving up my sweet life in San Francisco surrounded by friends, public transportation and a constant supply of electricity. Swaziland is ... read more

Mallory Primm

Popular Topics