in the belly of a whale

I don't want to be nice.

29 Nov 2009

A Friday Night in a City Somewhere  A slightly intoxicated local student (he) upon hearing that my American friend (she) ... read more

> View All Posts

Stories

SerbiaSerbia

As A Woman In Serbia, Should I Hitchhike Alone?

"What would you do if you weren't afraid?"  I was sitting in a circle of women, self-help style, though the tone was notably more optimistic. It was a celebratory ... read more

07 Jun 2010
 

SerbiaSerbia

Sometimes You Have To Shout

A cigarette withered between the old man’s fingertips. Clad in a knit sweater and khakis, he had seemed harmless when we entered the cafe. Now, he stared bemusedly at ... read more

28 Jun 2010
 

Insider Tips

Food

flagCroatia

Dolac has it all: figs, flowers, honey, and octopuses

Located directly behind Zagreb's main square (Trg Bana Jelacica), this market is great for foodies and the budget weary alike. The first floor entrance looks like a modest storefront ... read more

04 Oct 2009
Must Do

flagCroatia

Zagreb's flea market: build-a-car and more

Its worth waking up early on Sunday or Wednesday morning for the Hrelic Flea Market (which is only open these days). If you are not in need of underwear, hardware ... read more

04 Oct 2009
Etiquette

flagSerbia

Serbian monasteries: Cover up & watch out for construction

Scantily-clad tourists are warned not to enter places of worship in most parts of the world. Eastern Orthodox monks in Serbia have a few additional requests: beard, babushka, and neutral ... read more

11 Oct 2009
Health

flagSerbia

LADIES: Future Offspring or Bare Feet? Your Call.

There are a number of commonly held beliefs in both Croatia and Serbia about things perilous to your lady parts. When my Serbian host mother catches me barefoot inside she ... read more

25 Oct 2009
Getting Around

flagSerbia

The guy on the bus isn't offering you free money

If you are approached on a night bus in Belgrade by a man holding a wad of cash and looking expectantly at you, do not be alarmed. He is the ... read more

25 Oct 2009
Must Do

flagCroatia

Rakia: Drink of choice

"It's a stomach opener," my Croatian friend said as a means of encouragement when an old man at a hiker's lodge offered me my first shot of rakia ... read more

06 Nov 2009
Music

flagCroatia

The ocean is an organist

The sea song is particularly melodic in the old city center of Zadar. This is due to the sea organ, a seamlessly integrated art installation that makes itself known only ... read more

06 Nov 2009
Food

flagBosnia and Herzegovina

Cevapi is cevaplicious

Cevapi is delicious. Let's just make that clear. It may give you a stomach ache in that greasy McDonald's breakfast meat sort of way, but it is so ... read more

06 Nov 2009
Nightlife

flagCroatia

Climb into bed with a stranger

One afternoon in Zadar, while wandering by my lonesome, I met a fellow traveler. We struck up a conversation, watched the sunset over the water and half an hour later ... read more

06 Nov 2009
Politics

flagBosnia and Herzegovina

Learn three languages at once

Language, like many things in the former Yugoslavia, is a matter of politics. What was once Serbo-Croatian is now arguably three new languages--Serbian, Bosnian, Croatian. But the division is mostly ... read more

06 Nov 2009
Getting Around

flagSerbia

You're probably going to get lost in Belgrade

When trying to navigate the avenues of a new city, it usually helps to have a map. In Belgrade, not so much. In addition to roads twisting and turning, maps ... read more

03 Dec 2009
Food

flagSerbia

Ajvar: Your new favorite food

Ajvar is like the Balkan version of salsa. But better. (Especially since actual attempts at salsa here usually include ketchup.) A hearty mix of bell peppers, garlic, eggplant and chili ... read more

03 Dec 2009
Food

flagSerbia

Eastern Europe does Crepes, and quite well

Palacenka is an inexpensive treat advertised on the windows of restaurants and sandwich shops throughout the Balkans. This delightful dish is comparable to crepes, if not virtually the same, and ... read more

03 Dec 2009
Getting Around

flagSerbia

TXT 2 PRK

So you're cruising around Belgrade and you see an open parking spot in the city center. First of all, congratulations, they're hard to come by. Second, don't ... read more

04 Dec 2009
Books

flagBosnia and Herzegovina

Short stories as an introduction

Sarajevo Marlboro by Miljenko Jergovic is a fantastic/al collection of short stories about life under siege in Bosnia's capital city. Jergovic's characters--Muslims, Serbs and Croats alike--are eccentric ... read more

04 Dec 2009
Film

flagBosnia and Herzegovina

A film worth watching

"Grbavica: Land of My Dreams" is a beautiful, difficult film. Written and directed by Jasmila Zbanic with a slow and steady hand, Grbavica shows the myriad ways that war affects ... read more

04 Dec 2009
Getting Around

flagSerbia

Road tripping? B.Y.O.T.P.

I have taken a few road trips in the region, and I've seen my fair share of rest stops. Some are sleek and shiny convenience store/cafe combinations, like ... read more

04 Dec 2009
Etiquette

flagSerbia

Balkan hospitality: Drinks come in rounds

Balkan hospitality is the real deal. Expect to be well fed, and with a drink in hand, whenever in the company of locals. When it comes to paying, your hosts ... read more

04 Dec 2009
Food

flagSerbia

Get a hot chocolate high

Hot chocolate in many cafes in the Balkans is like hot chocolate pudding. In other words, it's kind of like crack, sans the drug culture and possibility of arrest ... read more

04 Dec 2009
Must Do

flagSerbia

REX: An alternative to museums and movie theaters

REX is a self-defined "cultural laboratory" working to promote "a culture of curiosity." Obviously, it's worth checking out. In my few weeks in Belgrade I have attended a poetry ... read more

04 Dec 2009
-->
Advertisements

Or login with Facebook:

Forgot your password? We can help you change it! Click Here

Not registered? Click here to create an account.