Bordering On

Street Party

26 Oct 2009

 The response to the police raid on the street party in old Nicosia: have another street party.   People gathering ... read more

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Stories

CyprusCyprus

Fighting Floods And Dust In A Land of Drought

“I see you are not from Cyprus.” This is never posed as a question; my blonde hair and blues eyes announce my foreignness here like a flare. “America, the States ... read more

21 May 2009
 

CyprusCyprus

HOW TO: Drink Coffee In The Mediterranean

Where is everyone? Wandering through the streets at one in the afternoon, I wonder if I’ve been transported to a ghost town. A plastic bag rolls by like tumbleweed ... read more

27 Oct 2009
 

CyprusCyprus

SLIDESHOW: Island Life In The Mediterranean

In the old town of divided Nicosia, the Greek and Turkish flags fight for space on the horizon. The guarded ... read more

26 Jan 2010
 

Insider Tips

Food

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Pace yourself

When people invite you to dinner in Cyprus, don't eat lunch. Seriously. The traditional Cypriot mezedes meal can include up to 30 dishes, of everything from fried cheese to ... read more

21 Feb 2009
Books

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Brush on up your history with "Echoes from the Dead Zone"

Cyprus' recent history can be impossible to peg down -- a British colony? Then a coup from Greece? Then invasion from Turkey? Or was it the other way around? Or was ... read more

08 Oct 2009
Getting Around

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In Cyprus, you walk alone

If you're used to pedestrianized cities, Cyprus may knock you a bit -- literally, cars drive in front of me to park on the narrow sidewalks all the times. Outside ... read more

06 Jan 2010
Festivals & Events

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Easter extravaganza

No one does Easter like the Orthodox. On the South side of the island, it's a week-long affair with strict fasting (and then feasting) rules and choreographed services. On ... read more

06 Jan 2010
Culture Shock

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Buffer zone blues

Whether it's the guarded military towers, showing your passport to cross the street, or simply being re-routed in the city because of the border, the buffer zone in divided ... read more

06 Jan 2010
Must Do

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Sandy sleeping under the stars

In the summer, Cyprus temperatures climb above 100F -- nearly everyday. The cities empty and everyone runs to the coasts, but the best (and cheapest!) way to spend a sweltering weekend ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Etiquette

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Good luck refusing food

In any gathering of more than two people in Cyprus, there is always food. Not just a box of crackers to share, but Mother's leftover lamb, Grandmother's preserved ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Film

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Go for the festivals

There's not a big culture for cinema in Cyprus -- there are only a couple movie theaters per city, and most of them are the expensive big blockbuster-type showing American ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Packing

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Bring a sweater, to wear inside

It's definitely hot in Cyprus most of the year, but in the winter at night I have been as cold in Cyprus as I have been anywhere in the ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Religion

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Walk-in church services

In the Turkish-speaking North of Cyprus, you can visit a mosque by taking off your shoes (women, they give you a headscarf) and walking in, except during prayer hours. In ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Politics

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Politics: approach with care

Sometimes the political situation in Cyprus seems like what the island revolves around, and other times it seems like an issue that everyone deals with by ignoring it. When discussing ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Music

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Drinking, dancing, and brothel poetry

There are many kinds of music to sample in Cyprus, from traditional goat-herder bagpipes to Turkish club music (impossible not to dance to). In the Greek-speaking South, don't miss ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Sports

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How you vote is who you root for

In Cyprus, devotion to a local football (soccer) team is not only based on location, but politics. There is a leftist, communist team (Omonia), a more right-wing, nationalist team (Apoel ... read more

07 Jan 2010
TV

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TV: Free language lessons and a blast from the past

American movies with Greek or Turkish subtitles are shown on multiple TV channels in Cyprus. I found reading the subtitles a great way to reinforce the language that you normally ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Fashion

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Fashion: Divided (like everything else)...

On either side of the island, there are two main fashion currents in Cyprus -- the formal chic, basically lots of black and bling, or the laid-back hippie, with harem pants ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Dating

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One on one?

Both young men and young women in Cyprus tend to live at home until they are married, which can put a conservative spin on the dating scene on the island ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Health

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Watch the cheese

Cyprus is famous for halloumi cheese: It's white, slightly salty with a hint of mint, and firm enough to grill without melting. And it's served at every meal ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Slang

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"Dude" is cool but not "dudette"

In the Greek-speaking South, you will hear a word pronounced "ray" quite a lot. This means something like "dude," "guy," "man," "friend" -- and Cypriots use it for both girls and ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Nightlife

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Party over dinner

There are clubs in Cyprus, but the dance scene involves a lot of well-dressed people standing around against the wall. The real parties in Cyprus start over long dinners, sometimes ... read more

07 Jan 2010
Being an American

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Get ready for some conspiracy theories

The United States is one of the international players in the Cypriot conflict, as it is well understood in Cyprus that the United States (the CIA) backed the military coup ... read more

07 Jan 2010
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